Shikoku has a discreet but deep presence in the Japanese archipelago. She wears her center on her sleeve and invited you to explore her sunny shores and misty mountain routes. Maybe you’ll make him a friend in Shikoku’s introspective soul.
Shikoku is the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, but it delivers big on opportunities to get to know Japan’s spiritual side and explore some of the country’s strikingly beautiful natural areas. Divided into the four prefectures of Kagawa, Ehime, Tokushima and Kochi, Shikoku can be reached by air, train, bus or ferry from Japan’s major cities.
With its 88 temples and sacred sites, and origins dating back to the 8th century, the Henro (Shikoku pilgrimage) is an integral component of Shikoku culture. It meanders through the 4 prefectures, along suburban streets, the non-violent countryside, rugged coastal roads and forested mountain slopes. Embark on an adventure through the cultural center of Japan and immerse yourself in a original delight only discovered in Shikoku.
Though dedicated to different deities, all the sites have ties to the revered monk Kōbō Daishi (774-835, also known as Kukai), the central figure of the Henro and the founder of the Shingon School of Japanese Buddhism. Priests began visiting Shikoku after his death, followed by regular citizens during the Edo period (1603-1867), who walked the route seeking a cure for illness, as an expression of their faith or for sightseeing.
David Moreton, a Canadian researcher based in Shikoku specialized in Henro, explains:
“The Shikoku pilgrimage is due to its diversity in other sects and religions. “
“In the past, some of the sacred sites were Shinto shrines, and not all of the present-day 88 sites – which are now temples – belong to the same sect. While most are Shingon, there are a few temples from other sects, such as Zen.”
You will probably see other people dressed in the pilgrim’s “uniform”: white dresses (hakue) symbolizing purity of spirit, a straw hat (sugegasa), and colorful personnel (kongozue). However, this clothing is not mandatory, and many visitors wear normal clothing. The Henro also gives a glimpse into the spirit of Osettai (supporting and supporting others), as other local people do greater hospitality and kindness to those on the pilgrimage route.
Walking Everything Henro takes about six weeks, some pilgrims now opt for cars, motorcycles or public transport, and many take the direction in the sections. Moreton points out that even visiting some of the temples can be very rewarding. “Unlike the popular temples in large cities, those of Henro are rarely full and are in varied places,” he says. “You can inform about the long history and culture of the shikoku pilgrimage. “
Here are a variety of temples for your Shikoku itinerary:
Yakuōji (Temple 23) is an ideal selection for those who are curious about mindfulness in Buddhist culture. The temple pays homage to Yakushi Nyorai (The Buddha of Medicine), who cures diseases and dispels misfortune. Yakuōji is revered through flights of stairs corresponding to the so-called “unlucky ages”: 33 for women, 42 for men. You can see other people dropping a coin on each step as they climb the stone stairs in the hope that good luck will come. The respective ages are based on the classic Japanese approach to age calculation, in which a baby is considered to be one year old at birth and all of them are one year older on January 1. No matter your age, luck is definitely on your side at Yakuōji, where you can check out activities such as ajikan meditation (a practice of Shingon Buddhism) and calligraphy (copying sutras) on your visit. Advance reservations are recommended.
Kōbō Daishi studied Buddhist teachings in China for two years and, according to local legend, before his return in 806, he threw his ritual scepter toward Japan and landed at Ashizuri. Kongōfukuji (Temple 38) is located at the tip of Cape Ashizuri, the southernmost part of Shikoku and one of the most remote places in Henro. This impressive temple complex is surrounded by windswept pine trees and has a tranquil reflecting pool in the middle of the grounds. During its long history, the temple enjoyed the patronage of emperors and other vital figures. Make the most of your trip to Cape Town with an overnight stay and enjoy attractions such as fishing, onsen (hot spring) swimming, hiking, stargazing, and glass-bottom boat tours to spot local marine life.
Some specific settings require a bit of extra effort to succeed and this is the case with Yokomineji (Temple 60), the most difficult to access all the temples of Henro. However, once you arrive and appreciate the surrounding atmosphere, you will perceive why other people have been going there for centuries. Doloading has long been a sacred position for Shugendo (mountain asceticism), and it is believed that Kōbō daishi practiced there in his youth. Yokomineji sits halfway up Mount Ishizuchi, Shikoku’s highest peak and the gardens are dotted with pink rhododendrons in May. Don’t miss the photogenic Hoshi-Ga-Mori, a picturesque spot about six hundred meters from the main temple, where a Torii gate sits on the edge of a cliff, flanked by cedar trees.
Situated on Mount Unpen, this temple is the highest point of the entire Henro route at just over 900m above sea level. It’s said that Kōbō Daishi made the journey up the mountain three times during his lifetime. Unpenji (Temple 66) is now accessible by ropeway for those who prefer an easier route, and you’ll enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding countryside on the way to the summit. The peaceful temple grounds are particularly beautiful when the vibrant autumn foliage lights up the forest. Another interesting feature of Unpenji is the more than 500 life-sized statues of Arhat (disciples of Buddhist teaching) scattered around the temple grounds. It’s said that everyone can find their likeness among them, so be sure to search for your stone doppelgänger during your visit.
This is just a taste of what awaits you along the Henro, where you can immerse yourself in the rich spiritual heritage that leads to Shikoku. Whether you accept the challenge of moving or opt for easier means of shipping, pay attention to Henro based on your situations and the way that suits you best.
Advance to Shikoku, where each path leads to a new discovery. Sacred pilgrimage paths with wild and rich traditions, Shikoku invited you to explore a global in a global. Start you and let your brain transform.